Low impedance, maximum safe output with energy conservation. For medium to large pastures.The all new Mark 7, low impedance fencer gives you the stock holding power that you have always wanted. Shocks right through wet weeds or brush and over extremely dry ground. Features Parmak's exclusive built-in DIGITAL performance meter that tells you the exact condition of the fence. Takes the guesswork out of electric fencing. 100% solid state, with all new low impedance, uni-junction circuitry. No moving parts. Ideal for use with high tensile single or multi-wire fences.New color coded fence and ground terminals. Red to the fence and Black to ground.The Mark 7 operates for less than 7 cents a month at 7 cents per kwh. Fuse protection, with new built-in lightning arresters.Full 1 year warranty - From date of retail purchase - Covers damage caused by lightning.Indoor installation.UL listed.

American Livestock Supply, Inc. has taken great care in assembling this label information. But, due to the possibility of human error or manufacture label changes, American Livestock Supply, Inc. disclaims responsibility for use or misuse of this product. Before use, always read and follow the manufacturer's label on the physical product.

PARMAK Maxi-POWER MARK 7. 110-20 volt ac operation. : Low Impedance.

FENCE LOAD: Open Circuit , 500 ohms, 100 ohms.

VOLTS: 11,000, 7,500, 4,600

JOULES RATING: low 1.0, high 6.0

RECOMMENDED USE: For medium to large size pastures. Ideal for all livestock including sheep and predator control. Will shock through large amount of weeds and brush.30 mile range. Model MARK 6 (BETTER) Model S.E.3 (BEST)These are the top AC models for the medium and larger fences. Ideal for all livestock or deer fences. The S.E.3 is the best choice for high tensile fences and can charge over 50 miles. Both the M6 an S.E.3 will shock through medium to heavy vegetation. The S.E.3 also excellent for sheep or deer fences.

HERE IS SOME IMPORTANT INFORMATION CONCERNING JOULE RATINGS:
1. How does the joule relate to the performance of an electric fence charger? It doesn't. It would take a ten page letter to explain all of the factors which make an electric shock effective. The joule does not measure the effectiveness of electric shock. The joule is a mathematical equation of Voltage x Amps x Time. The longer the "on-time" of the pulse, the higher the joule rating will be and the longer the "on-time" the less safe the fencer is to use and the less effective. The joule is not the correct way to measure the performance of any electric fence charger because the joule does not consider peak current value or "on-time" which are key factors in the effectiveness of a fencer, therefore, the joule cannot define true shock effectiveness or fencers safe What controls livestock is voltage and amperage. You must have voltage in order to force electricity through the conductor (fence wire) as well as vegetation touching the fence, etc., and you must have current in order for the livestock to feel that shock. Joules or heat has nothing to do with it. The most effective fence charger will have the highest power (voltage and amps) possible in the shortest on-time possible, thereby allowing the fence charger to develop a sharp spike which is far more effective in controlling livestock and at the same time is safe to use. Example of how misleading the Joule rating is: The Parmak Pet Gard (model PG-50) is a continuous current, non-pulsing type charger designed for small animals in backyards, gardens, etc. Using the joule rating (Voltage x Amps x Time) the Pet Gard would have an unlimited joule rating making it the most powerful fencer, which it is not. In summary, it is important to point out that Underwriters Laboratories (U/L) or Canadian Standard Assoc., (CSA) do not recognize the joule as a measurement when applied to electric fence chargers.
2. If the joule should not be used then why do imported fencers use the joule rating? The imports use the joule rating as a marketing ploy to sell fencers. By using the joule rating and other misleading claims they create as much confusion as possible in an attempt to "cloud the issue" and cover up the true facts about what makes a fencer effective. What they do not tell you is that the "on-time" of their fencers are several times longer than Parmak models which automatically gives them a higher joule rating. No wonder they like to talk about joules!!!! Because of this longer "on-time" the majority of imported fencers are not U/L listed (U/L limits the on time of fencers for safety purposes) and are considered by many to be potentially dangerous to use.

OFTEN ASKED QUESTIONS:
1. Q. What causes an electric fence to fail?
The biggest cause for a failed electric fence is HUMAN!! Most people do not fully understand what it takes to correctly install and maintain an electric fence. They do not understand that any electric fence requires routine maintenance to keep adequate power on the fence or maybe they just are too busy to take the time to do the required maintenance. The biggest maintenance problems are inadequate ground (poor ground), poor connections, using wrong wire size, using too small of an electric fencer for the job (under powered fencer), etc. It all goes back to the "human factor": - - - Poor knowledge - -Too complicated- - - Too much time to do routine checks - - -If you decide to use electric fences, take the time to learn how to correctly build the fence and maintain it. Buy the correct electric fencer for the job and read your owners manual thoroughly.
2. Q. What does low impedance mean?
In non-technical terms, low impedance means the fence charger is designed to effectively shock through vegetation and other foreign matters contacting the charged wire. Vegetation such as grass, weeds, vines, etc., contacting the charged wire tend to impede or stop the flow of electricity by "grounding out" the fence. This is a common problem which exists on most electric fence installations, the low impedance fencer is a solid-state capacitor discharge design and has enough power to force the shock through vegetation. The best low impedance fencers have an on-time of less than 100 micro-seconds (100 millionths of a second) with a pulse rate of approximately 55 times per minute.
3. Q. Does Parmak Manufacture low impedance models?
Yes. The Parmak models DF-LI, DF-SP-LI, Mag 12 U.O., Mag 12-SP, HS-100, FM, Mark 6 and S.E.3 are low impedance, UL listed models. See Parmak's full line brochure for details on these and other top quality Parmak fencers.
4. Q. What is a Joule?
The joule is a measurement of heat in British Thermal Units (BTU's) or Foot-Pounds Energy. The distance a given weight can be moved in a unit of time, or the amount of heat that is generated for a specified time, equals a joule, (i.e., a joule is equivalent to .7378 foot pounds of .0002778 watt-hours (approximately 1 watt second).
5. Fence chargers and phone, radio, and modem interference.
All Parmak fencers are thoroughly shielded and filtered against radio, television, and telephone interference. When interference occurs, it is usually caused by one or more of the following:
1. A current leak to ground at some point along the fence line. This may be a result of very dirty or cracked insulators, wire touching a post, trees, a building, or vegetation
2. A loose connection in the fence wire, possibly due to poor splices, gate opening, or a rusted wire.
Poor ground connection.
Any of these conditions could cause a "spark gap" resulting in a spark jumping the gap when the controller charges the fence wire. When the spark jumps, it acts as a broadcast antenna and noise is transmitted to all radios, telephones, televisions, etc in the immediate area. A careful check of the fence wire installation will disclose the trouble. Two people checking together will help locate the source more easily. To determine if the fence controller is at fault, disconnect the controller from the fence wire (ground and fence wire), letting the controller operate while disconnected from the fence installation. If the noise continues with the fence disconnected, the controller is at fault and needs repair. You can return the fencer to the factory for the necessary repairs. If you do not get the clicking with the both the fence and the ground disconnected, only connect the ground and do the same test for the clicking. If you do get the clicking, the problem is your ground is too close to your main house ground system. Try moving your ground rod further away from the house or the main ground. If you don’t hear the clicking after you connect the ground rod or move it, the problem is in your fence line. You should check the fence line for a loose connection in the fence wire possibly due to poor splices, gate opening, rusted wire, or cracked/damaged insulators